Anyone who has seen the first trailer of Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Padmavati will agree that the three central characters, played by Deepika Padukone, Shahid Kapoor and Ranveer Singh, look absolutely stunning. From Deepika's heavy jewellery and exquisite costumes as Rani Padmini to Ranveer's Turkish-inspired robes and kohl-rimmed eyes as Alauddin Khilji to Shahid Kapoor's traditional Rajput look, the look of the film is spectacular. Designers Rimple and Harpreet Narula worked on Deepika, Ranveer and Shahid's costumes and told news agency IANS: "Working in tandem with Sanjay Leela Bhansali's vision, we immersed ourselves in the history of that particular period during the initial sessions in which he took us through the script and the characterisations. It is an extremely challenging task to envision and design garments."
Here's a detailed account of the challenging task set by Padmavati designer Sanjay Leela Bhansali for Rimple and Harpreet Narula.
Deepika Padukone as Rani Padmini:
"You would find many Sri Lankan influences in Padmavati's attire," Harpreet told IANS.
When the first character poster of Deepika Padukone released on social media, the actress' unibrow created quite a stir. After the trailer of Padmavati released on Monday, it was Deepika's bindi placement which amused the Internet. But both features are in fact quite integral to the overall look of the "the Sinhalese princess who became a Rajput queen." Rimple said: "To get the nitty-gritty of the styling and drapes of the period correct, we turned to old miniature paintings, murals and frescoes as well as regular visits to the Jaipur and Calico museums to get the touch and feel right."
A source close to the film also told mid-day that Deepika used minimal make-up for her role. "We did thorough research on Rani Padmini - from the kind of outfits she wore to her makeup. Women back then used natural ingredients to enhance their beauty. Mr Bhansali was certain that he wanted to retain the authenticity. So, Deepika used very little makeup for her role. It would take her 30 minutes to get ready."
Shahid Kapoor as Maharawal Ratan Singh:
"For Shahid's costumes everything from the clothing styles prevalent in the 14th century to the weather of Chittor was kept in mind," Harpreet told mid-day.
Shahid Kapoor plays the role of a Rajput king and the research to get his look right took nearly four months. The designers travelled to various museums all over the world to understand the antique textiles and costumes from that period. "We sourced organic fabrics from Rajasthan that were then embroidered by hand by 22 local artisans. We have stuck to pure muslin cloth as the base, and then used vegetable dye or hand dye. While we tried to use hues that are associated with masculinity, we also had to balance it with brighter colours, since Rajasthani outfits are all about colour at the end of the day," Harpreet told mid-day.
Ranveer Singh as Alauddin Khilji:
"There is a definite nod to Khilji's Turkish/Afghan origins when it comes to his drapes and ornamentation," Harpreet told IANS
To resurrect Alauddin Khilji on the silver screen, Rimple and Harpreet researched the costumes and textiles in areas such as Afghanistan and Kazakhistan, Central Asia and around Turkey. "Khilji's colour palette is decidedly dark. We have used robust nomadic elements, layered with different textures and fabrics to achieve a rugged look. This goes with the character's evolution, from a young warrior-invader, to the Sultan of India. Vintage shawls and drapes have been used to style the hand-crafted armours to create an authentic look," Harpreet told mid-day.
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"We wanted to create a look of an antagonist that would align with Bhansali's vision," Rimple told mid-day.
The designers also revealed that they've used several antiques from their personal collection in Padmavati. "We would often collect old fabrics, or buy antiques like brooch or pins from flea markets. We've used these trinkets in Padmavati," they told mid-day.
Rimple and Harpreet Narula earlier collaborated with Sanjay Leela Bhansali on films such as Bajirao Mastani, Ram Leela and Saawariya.
(With inputs from IANS)
