As citizens of the Indian sub-continent, the cuisine is what most of us come home to. Whether it's coconut-dominated sustenance of the coastal belt or the mandatorily butter garnished meals of the Northern regions that you find the flavour of home in, Indian cuisine from across its 28 states is what we've eaten most of our lives. So for that kind of familiar, homely fare to be reinvented to the extent that it can make a food lover sit up and take a second spoon, and then another; it's takes a special kind of magic. Mumbai's latest luxury hotspot Indian Accent aims to create that magic and (spoiler alert) has found success in doing so. On this edition of #SheSays, I explore Mumbai's Indian Accent and how it is redefining the idea of the global Indian palette.
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After first launching in New Delhi in 2009, followed by New York in 2016 to much critical acclaim, Indian Accent finally opened its Mumbai outpost in August 2023. Finding a suitable home in the fittingly plush Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC) in the business district of BKC, the restaurant is helmed by the masterful Head Chef Rijul Gulati who has worked under the guidance of Culinary Director Chef Manish Mehrotra. While the restaurant brings its signature favourites from New Delhi and New York to the dining tables of Mumbai, it also offers a fresh take on much-loved staples.
Old world charm finds confluence with modern elements as a tribute to Mumbai's Art Deco movement, which is visible from the first step inside the door of the Mumbai restaurant. A palette of ivory and tan paints the restaurant throughout, which is piqued by marble accents and glints of gold. Black and white photographs frame the wall on one side and large windows do the same on the other, offering a delightful view of Jio's Fountain Of Joy, especially if you're dining at night. While a stunning bar and show kitchen frames one end of the dining area, the restaurant also features two private dining rooms.
As the restaurant interiors pay homage to Mumbai's Art Deco revolution, the cocktail menu tips its hat to the jazz era of the 20s and 30s. One can choose from the list that includes names like Bombay Sling and Byculla Club which finds its flavours from brandy, bitters and aromatic liquors. But if your bar order is of a more straightforward nature, choose from their signature cocktail menu or reserve wine list instead. The Coconut & Jasmine Highball has strong notes of floral running throughout and the Irish Colada, with inclusions of pineapple and pistachio, is what a sandy beach vacation must taste like. Non-alcoholic beverages too are on par with the winding cocktail menu. Impressively enough, the Cherry Cola uses cola made inhouse as part of its recipe.
Along with A la carte options and a business lunch menu, the Chef's Tasting Menu, which comes in vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, offers an expansive set of varied seafood and meat options that highlight the star produce and flavours from all over the country, cooked in unique combinations. All meals at the restaurant begin with the signature Indian Accent Shorba and Blue Cheese Naan. The delightful sip balances the rich tartness of blue cheese and sets expectations for the fare to come.
The Dilli Papdi Chaat featured the familiar taste of Delhi's famous street food in a miniature version. As is the case with tasting menus, the servings for each course are tiny but add up significantly as the courses go by. The Murgh Malai comes with Gobindobhog and Mushroom Payesh and is topped with summer truffles. An Indian take on an Italian risotto, the creaminess runs deep in every bite and truffle adds its trademark luxurious flavour; heightened by the fact that it is garnished live at the table. Another Indian dish with an international edge is the Meetha Achaar Pork Ribs. Sourced from Belgium, the hearty pork finds balance with the sweetness of chutney. The Anar and Churan Kulfi Sorbet is an ideal palette cleanser from the various courses consumed at this point.
The Kanyakumari Crab with XO Balchao and Mirchi Pao was nothing short of a highlight from the courses. The succulent crab meat is rich in XO gravy while maintaining its ocean-like flavours in every morsel. Served with miniature paos, digging into this dish will take you straight back to the time you last sat at your dining room table at home and dipped bread into piping hot curry, which was prepared with the day's fresh catch. The Butter Chicken Kulcha with Dry Fenugreek Butter lends its globally well-loved flavour to the side bread, giving the palette a texturally new format to take in.
While the Daulat Ki Chaat with Rose Petal Chikki and Roast Almond, that came decorated with replica currency notes, looked weighty, it very impressively wasn't. Each spoon of the milk-rich dessert was almost cloud-like and fluffy, which was accentuated by the crunch of the chikki and almonds.
It isn't difficult to see why Indian Accent is praised the way it is. There's no doubt that the service is sparkling and ambiance is divine. The food is prepared with heart and meticulousness; which is evident in every leaf, flake and garnish that is added to each plate. From the celebration of everyday ingredients like lentils being used as part of the presentation to even the humble pressure cooker being celebrated within courses, there is purpose to everything that arrives at the table. Indian Accent's success doesn't boil down to a single aspect. It's an entire experience that comes together to redefine what it means to step out for a modern Indian meal that's perfectly forged for a global palette.
In #SheSays, Dayle Pereira explores the sights, sounds, experiences and tastes of luxury hospitality at hotels and resorts, restaurants and hotspots all over the world.
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